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RECOMMENDED TOOLS: Rotary Hammer Drill
Drill Bits-1/2" and 5/8"
2 Wrenches - 7/8", Channel Locks, Vice Grips
Reciprocating Saw (Sawzall)
Metal Saw Blades
RECOMMENDED INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
I. FIRST STEP:
Click on all pictures to enlarge!
• Ask homeowner if there are any known obstacles in the ground (gas, water,
sewer, electrical conduits, etc.).
• To layout the job, measure 41/2 to 5 feet in from each comer and mark the
proposed anchor placement.
• Then space the remaining anchors at 41/2 to 5-foot intervals.
• A typical 30-foot long wall will need 5 anchors.
>. SECOND STEP:
• For outside anchor placement, measure 8 feet off exterior wall opposite
anchor placement and dig a hole roughly 2 1/2 feet long by 15 inches wide and
2 1/2 feet deep.
5. THIRD STEP:
• Place 7-foot interior steel plate temporarily on wall, mark where you are
to drill your hole. It must not be at the bottom of the pre-cut mounting
must be approximately 1 1/2" from the top of either slot. Remove the anchor and
drill hole through the wall using rotary hammer drill and 5/8" bit so that the
angle of the rod meets up with the hole already dug.
Place threaded rod in the hole you drilled in the wall and with your hammer
pound it out to the hole outside. We recommend that you put a coupler with a
small piece of rod on the end so that the pounding does not tear the end of the
rod. The rod should come out in the hole already dug at least 7 to 8 inches
below ground surface. About 6 to 7 inches of the rod should be visible in the
hole. Rod does not always come out perfect; you may have to dig a little more
to the left, right or down.
Place a zinc coated nut on the rod about 3 to 4 inches and slide outside plate up to the nut
with the dog-ears pointing to the wall to be anchored.
Then place a zinc coated washer followed by two zinc coated nuts
on the rod and and tighten all three nuts to the
Fill in hole with dirt.
• Then place interior plate on wall with rod running through it. Put on small
3 inches by 11 1/4 inches, then a washer and nut.
• Before tightening the nut you will want to anchor the plate on the ground with
heavy-duty anchor pins. You may anchor the plate to the footer, new concrete
and/or existing concrete. You will need a 1/2 inch drill bit for your hammer
Make sure the bottom of the plate is against the wall.
• Tighten nut on interior plate with wrench. (We recommend turning wrench until
you reach firm resistance, then turn 2 to 3 more full turns).
• Use a reciprocating saw (Sawz-all) to cut off the excess rod. Try to get as
to the nut as possible.
• Optional: Once rod is cut you may test the tightness of the interior nut. Use
torque wrench and tighten to 50 or 80 pounds pressure.
JOB COMPLETED IN FIVE EASY STEPS!
• Due to certain circumstances, you may have to change the recommended 8-foot
exterior plate installation.
No less than 5 feet from the foundation is recommended and pouring concrete in
the hole between the plate and the front of the hole will help to make an
effective anchor if using less than 8-foot installation.
For applications that require a longer than 8-foot anchor, you can use a coupler
on the end of the 10-foot rod and lengthen it by 20 feet maximum.
You may also need a coupler if you must cut the 10-foot rod to accommodate a
less than 10-foot wide basement.
While digging, you may run into rocks or roots and you may need a chipping
hammer to break up rocks or a reciprocating saw (Sawz-all) to cut roots.
Also, when pounding rod through rocks or roots you may need to use a midsize
When using a coupler, keep it a few feet from the outside wall so that the
coupler will not come into contact with wall when tightening.
FULL-WALL® ANCHOR SPECS.
The interior plate measures 14" x 84" and is made of heavy 10-
gauge galvanized steel. There are extrusions on either side of the
plate design which gives the Full-Wall® anchor additional strength
and wall conformity. Pre-cut mounting slots provide ample room
for rod installation and tightening. The interior plate also has a 90-
degree angled base that can be fastened to a concrete floor or
footer with a variety of concrete fasteners.
The outside plate measures 12" x 24" and is made of 3/16" thick
hot dipped galvanized steel. The corners of the plate are "dog
eared" for added grip and holding power.
These plates are connected with a 1/2" 10-foot long nickel plated
rod that has special threads to resist them from being stripped and
aid in penetration of the outside ground.
Zinc plated hardened washers and hex nuts are used to fasten the